One of my favourite highlights of London Fashion Week has always been the Burberry show. Burberry’s February Collection was no different. I’ve been delighted with how innovative the brand has been under Christopher Bailey; launching its “see now, buy now” collections. It has also made one of the most revolutionary steps in modern fashion in opening its collection to the public. In Makers’ House (which was also where the catwalk show took place) the catwalk collection was on display for 7 days. Having visited last September, I honestly didn’t think it could get any better – but this February, it did.
This time, for the Burberry’s February Collection, Makers’ House was airy and filled with light. The overall tone of the collection was monochromatic – something very unusual for Burberry! There wasn’t a heritage check in sight. But, I loved the brand’s departure from its traditional style to explore new materials and new colours. One of the first exhibits took inspiration from the historical importance of the cape for the Burberry brand. The collection pushed boundaries in seeking innovative materials for its capes – ranging from cotton balls to beads to feathers to curtain drapes.
The main section of Burberry’s February collection continued the monochromatic tone with some absolutely stunning pieces. My favourite was this white trench coat, which opened the show. Bailey has explained that the main inspiration behind the collection was that of British sculptor Henry Moore‘s work. Bailey praised with enthusiasm how the solidity of Moore’s materials (often using bronze) contrasts starkly with the fluidity of the figures he sculpted. In his collection, therefore, Bailey also sought to replicate these contrasts. The romanticism of white lace and ruffles contrasts starkly with the harsh lines of his military coats. Elegant lace dresses are set against sweatshirts and hoodies – streetwear made chic. Several of Moore’s sculptures also feature directly in the collection, their faces appearing as motifs on sweatshirts and bags.
It’s clear that in Burberry’s February collection, Bailey has made classic romanticism modern and relevant today – and I salute that.